Crazy 4wd Capers to Cape York

We respectfully acknowledge the Traditional Owners, custodians and knowledge keepers, across who lands we travelled and flew in Cape York and the Torres Strait. We acknowledge their Elders past, present and those who will lead in the future. We acknowledge the diversity of Australian Indigenous language groups that reside across the areas we travelled and extend our respect to any Indigenous People reading this blog. It was a privilege to travel these lands.

Please note that images of indigenous rock art are included in this blog, photographed with permission of The Ang-Gnarra Aboriginal Corporation of Laura (Ang Gnarra), the trustee of the traditional lands of the KuKu Thay Pan, Olkola, Ku Ku Pussom / KuKu Warra and Laura people, which are situated around the township of Laura.

Some of the information about places, history and people included in this blog is quoted or paraphrased from Cape York: Atlas and guide. (2008). Hema Maps Pty Ltd. Queensland, with appropriate citation. I would highly recommend the most current version of this atlas to compliment information from other sources along any trip you might make to Pajinka, the Tip of Australia.

Every photo in this blog was taken by me (or Crocodile Glasgow), along with most videos. Some videos of us driving Flora were taken by other people.

The “side stories” in this blog don’t necessarily follow chronologically and may be spoilers for things that are yet to happen. They are written to elaborate on different aspects of our trip, that are general rather than specific to any given day.

Saturday 28th September 2024

Day 1 – A travelling day

Today is the start of a really big adventure. A REALLY BIG ADVENTURE. But first we needed to get to Cairns, the starting point for this really big adventure. “Getting to Cairns” involved getting through a big few weeks at work, making sure the dog is safe and well looked after, and trying to recover from a lingering upper respiratory tract infection. Finally, we were on our way, a little stunned and heavily medicated. I hope the excitement rises soon.

We are heading off to The Tip. Not the one that takes the rubbish at Ranford Road, but The Tip of Australia, Cape York. Tomorrow, Sunday, we pick up our 4wd and load it up with all our gear, snacks and drinks, before we meet back at the hirer with other hirers (none of whom we know) on Monday morning, and head off in convoy, tagging along to The Tip and back over 2 weeks. Just typing this is making me excited!

The flight to Cairns was pretty straightforward, but losing 2 hours, meant that it took all day. We arrived in the dark, got an Uber to our little apartment and then wandered a couple of kilometres to get some beers. It’s muggy here, but not extremely hot. Beers went down well, before an early night (on Perth time), ready to feel better tomorrow and get this adventure started. 

Sunday 29th September 2024

Day 2 – Meeting Flora and our travel buddies

After a very good night’s sleep under a circling fan with the world’s oldest air conditioner drowning out any background noise, we had a slowish start to the day, eventually heading down to Cairns city for a lovely big breaky wrap and good coffee. Pete and Paulz is the place to be on Sunday morning, mostly because it was among one of the only places open! Full to the brim we wandered down to The Esplanade for a gander at the folk in the open-air public swimming area and the fun, origami-like water features. Very cute. 

By then it was time to meet our guides for the next 2 weeks and our ex-Army 4×4, Land Rover Perentie, sweetly named Flora. Don’t let the name fool you, she is a beast to say the least. She has no power steering, and a clutch that needs a stomp not a press. But she’s going to be our transport and our home for the next 2 weeks, and I suspect we are going to come to love her. 

After a pretty thorough briefing about the vehicles, we were off to the shops to stock up on the stuff we needed.

Between us we struggled to get Flora into the easiest parking spot, furthest from the shops, without side swiping anything. The company that hires the vehicles also manage the tag along and most of what we need, so we just had to get some sheets and a light doona, some snacks and some drinks. They are now all packed into Flora and she, like us, is patiently waiting to get this REALLY BIG ADVENTURE started! 

Monday 30th September 2024

Day 3 (Day 1 of the road trip) – Cairns to Kalpowar via Mareeba and all the Lauras 

“Good morning No Limits from Flora, Jim and Janie. Over”. 

Here we go, here we go, here we go! Last night we had a very lovely Thai meal, and watched The Best Marigold Hotel, before tossing and turning all night. The alarm wasn’t really needed; we were up and out of the apartment on time. In fact, like a few of the others, we were early, so we were able to get a coffee and some toast, before we got our day 1 briefing and now, we’re on our way! 

With no idea what to expect, our gear was fully loaded in the back, and we putted up the hill and out of the city. Crocodile Glasgow drove the first half of the day, with our first morning tea stop at Mareeba. This is my Aunty’s hometown, so it was nice to see the place she’s talked about forever.

From there I took over the driving and we flew along 180 odd kms to Lakeland, a place that is basically a roadhouse and some history about the local farming. At this point 7 vehicles were refuelled, and we were off again to Laura.

This is a tiny little place with a store and recently reopened pub, shaded by a huge mango tree, dripping soon-to-be-ripe fruit. A new publican has taken it on and opened it a year after his mate, the former publican, was taken by a crocodile. There is almost nothing there, just the pub, a store / post office and a beautiful old car. 

Back in the car, we headed onto our first dirt road and along to Old Laura, a place I have wanted to visit since I first thought about a trip to The Tip. It’s an old Queenslander, elevated on stumps, with associated out buildings and the most beautiful old, spreading frangipani. It was interesting to wander the homestead and imagine how hard it must have been to live in these conditions without the modern conveniences we have today. 

After one more loo stop at New Laura (how many Laura’s can there be?), we arrived very, very dusty at Kalpower campsite. Our lovely Flora is the wood carter, so we needed to drop the wood by the fire, before finding ourselves a posie for the night. We chose a spot near the kitchen and dining room, with a river view and a lovely breeze! I can assure you that the cold shower was super refreshing before our delicious Taco dinner and a few drinks. The last thing we did in the evening was wander down to the river to try to see some crocodiles. No result, thankfully!

Today’s side story – A few words about our travelling companions. Aside from us, there are the guys who are our guides, Our Fearless Leader and The Aussie Larrikin (more about them in another side story), a pair of sisters (Elle 1 and Dee 1) one of whom is a retired pharmacist travelling with a friend (also a retired pharmacist – Elle 2), and the other travelling with her husband (Ned). There is a retired couple who ran a power tools and mower business in South Queensland (Mr Big Hustler and Mrs Honda), and two English couples who know each other (Land Rover Man and The Radio Queen, and Jordy Boy and Dee 2). So how do we have any connection to them? Well, we didn’t know any of them before we started travelling but it turns out Elle 2 lives on the Mid North Coast of NSW and knows people I know! One of the couples from the UK lives in the same town as my cousin!  They have baby sat children in the same street as he lives in! Glasgow is calling us a psychological experiment, like Big Brother or Australian Survivor. Let’s go with “My Land Rover Rules, 2024.” Who will be fed to the crocodiles first? 

Tuesday 1st October 2024

Day 4 (Day 2 of the road trip) Kalpowar to Coen via all the gates 

What a lovely sleep, despite the heat and the smallish bed. I think the rushing sound of the river going past the back of the vehicle, making white noise and drowning out everything else helped. Our first breakfast was a smorgasbord of cereals and toast, before we jumped into convoy and drove across the river to look at the fossils. I drove us across, and Croc Glasgow drove us back! No mishaps and I’m grateful for that; apparently the water carter saw a couple of crocs this morning, both over 3m! Anyway, the fossils took a bit of finding but were worth the look. Apparently, there should be loads of them, but the bad weather from the last wet season has moved them or washed them away. 

The day’s driving started just after 07.30 and I took the wheel, the first time on the red dirt for this trip. Our tyre pressures are down to 28 psi (we put them at 30 because they were hot at the time), and we travel in a convoy of 7 vehicles spread across a good couple of kilometres. The idea is to try to sit beyond the dust of the car/s in front, while staying in radio contact across the convoy. We are using channel 16 to communicate and it goes a bit like this.

“Flora to Shelley we are stopping to take a photo. Over”

“Shelley to Flora, copy that. Over”

Of course, the messages are also important from the perspective of safety, like:

“Shelley to No Limits, we are going onto gravel, engage 4wd. Over”

Or

“Flora to Cliff and Coral, there is an oncoming car. Over”

The passenger is the radio operator and the head light turner-on’er, and the freshwater pourer and the music chooser. And in the case of those travelling in Coral, the passenger is not the button pusher, rather she is by her own admission, the knob puller! 

The day was consumed with quite a lot of driving, all on corrugations and with us swapping over at lunchtime. We stopped at Hahn Crossing for morning tea and a gorgeous Rainbow Bee Eater flew in and joined us. We have traipsed across Perth to see glimpses of these pretty birds when they were around last summer, and this fellow was waiting here for us all along!

We sat towards the back of the convoy today, and because of that, by the time we arrived at the firewood collection point it was all collected and ready for loading. Not planned that way, but a strategy worth remembering. Other stops included Red Lily Lagoon and the multiple gates through the private property, as well as Scrubby Lagoon for lunch. 

The management of the gate opening and closing is very efficient. The first to arrive opens them, waits until everyone is through, then closes them and joins the end of the convoy. The process repeats at the next gate, and each one after that. The guides dropped into last place so they would end up at the front of the convoy after the last gate, and thanks to a hot tip from The Larrikin that there were 5 gates, we dropped into 6th place! My maths is good; we didn’t need to open a gate! 

We swapped driving after lunch and by the time we arrived at Coen we were red with dust from head to toe! Coen is a tiny place with a pub, a police station, and a petrol station. Once again, we lined up and fuelled up, patted the town dog and headed out to the free campsite on the edge of town. To say we were hot is an understatement, and to say we were dirty would be too. So, it didn’t take us all long to be in our swimmers and into the river. We were reassured that it was highly unlikely there would be any crocodiles in the water, and the families with their kids in there were convincing, so we dipped in and rapidly cooled down, and cleaned up a bit. 

Our arrival routine is emerging. We have the firewood, so we park up beside the kitchen and dump the wood, by which time everyone has chosen a spot for the night, then we pick ours, conscious of the direction of the breeze and our privacy, and making sure we are level. Our bed is made up with a bottom sheet, a top sheet and a doona cover, which may not ever cover a doona! It’s hot up here and mostly we are sleeping without covers, although I have woken a couple of times under the sheet. We sleep with the plastic windows rolled up to let in the air, and the back doors open but covered with a net to keep out the bugs. Glasgow and the net have a loving relationship; the net loves to entangle him and he loves to complain about it! 

Tonight’s dinner was the best steak I have ever eaten from a BBQ, without a doubt. It didn’t come from either of the huge but very pretty cows that wandered through the campsite, stopping for a drink at the river, but maybe it came from one of their “cousins”. I love their eyes. One has perfect eyeliner, the other gorgeous sunglasses. Too pretty to eat. 

And just like that, we are two days into our Trip to the Tip.

Today’s side story – Our tour leaders. Our Fearless Leader is the main man for the tour. He is an ex-army Major, both UK and Australian, who had a mechanical role and is very familiar with Land Rovers. That is obviously why he got the job, and across these 14 days his expertise and skill has been needed more than once!

As you would expect following a career in the army, he is organised and efficient, and I would definitely want him on my side is a perilous situation!

The other thing we found out about him is that he is somewhat of a riddle; all is not as it seems! The reality is that that he took the responsibility of a big group very seriously and perhaps it was challenging for him at times, but he managed really well and kept everyone happy somehow. No mean feat! 

The Aussie Larrikin is a perfect complement to Our Fearless Leader. He is Australian to the core. I bet he bleeds green and gold, has a Eureka Flag tattoo and knows all the words to Khe San! His time spent learning to cook in the best restaurants of Paris certainly benefitted us out here in the bush! He is calm in tricky situations, and able to calm others down, like me at Gunshot! His greatest asset though is his sense of humour. I get the impression life hasn’t been easy, and that there have been a few ups and downs, but that he finds the funny side in most things and just gets on with it. We were lucky enough to hear some of his best Larrikinisms.

At one of the briefings, pointing to the sun – “If you can see the sun over there” then pointing in a different direction “and you are going that way … nup, that’s all I’ve got! We better wait for the proper briefing”.

And again …

“Put your stuff away cause the horses will come and get into it. And don’t try to pat them. They bite and kick. There’s a rifle up there in the rafters (points). Oh, there was. We shoot them”. 

And again …

“The boss wouldn’t let me bring my remote-controlled crocodile head on the tour”.

And again …

Dee 2: “There are people down there swimming near the “beware of crocodiles sign””.

The Larrikin: “As long as they are between the flags, they’ll be fine”.

Mr Land Rover: “Do the crocs respect that?”

And again …

Fearless Leader: “QLD police officers can have tattoos these days”.

The Larrikin: “Some of them use them to blend in when undercover”.

Glasgow: “Yeah that’s a point. I could see why”.

The Larrikin: “I’m undercover”.

Together, Our Fearless Leader and The Aussie Larrikin made a great team, and we thoroughly enjoyed getting to know them. We wish them both the very best and hope our paths cross again in the future.

Wednesday 2nd October 2024

Day 5 (Day 3 of the road trip) Coen to Moreton Telegraph Station

Thankfully the day started a bit later than yesterday, leaving the campsite at 08.00hrs. After dropping off our rubbish we headed back into Coen for a wander around the little museum, housed in another old Queenslander. Among the stuff there is some information about Toots and a large amount of mining equipment retrieved from a local gold mine that the prospector burned down when they refused to renew his licence. As with all these little museums, there was a wealth of information in there that must have some relevance to someone or will at some point in the future.

Today we stopped for morning tea at Archer River Roadhouse, where we picked up a few more car stickers, before we blasted up the road to Moreton Telegraph Station. The station has some very good camping, complete with resident cows!

We enjoyed a lovely walk to the Barra Hole, although no one fished it and the very real threat of crocodiles meant that despite the heat, no one swam either!

On our walk back we spotted a little wallaby, but other than cows and a single monitor lizard, we are yet to see much else in the way of wildlife. After a welcome shower we wandered around the campsite, ticking off a few of the birds we saw on the list they have available in the shop. 

The rest of the day passed comfortably chatting to fellow travellers before yet another delicious dinner, intriguingly named “Mal’s Hairy Biker Chicken”! I have no idea who Mal is, but I assume he’s hairy and a biker and likes peppery chicken. After dinner and a short burst of star gazing, Crocodile Glasgow, The Larrikin and I went off in search of a cus cus. As a little girl, obviously many years ago now, we used to go to Taronga Zoo with school each year. A highlight for me was always going into the nocturnal house and gazing at the beautiful cus cus. I remember that they were a caramel coloured, possum-like creature with huge brown eyes. Like the bubbling mud in Rotorua, the dolphins at Monkey Mia and the towns of Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie, all of which I never thought would be anything more than a school project, I hoped with all my primary school heart that we would see this little bundle of cuteness. It wasn’t to be, but we did find some sleeping cows, an alert frogmouth and too many cane toads, one of which managed to find its way into our mozzie net. For its trouble it was given a swift kick in the pants. It’s good luck apparently! There’s still 11 nights to go …

Today’s side story – And now I am a radio girl. Glasgow’s Scottish accent seems quite watered down to me but apparently it is hard to understand for some folk. For this reason and because I am in the passenger seat for 50% of the time, I have taken to being our CB radio user. For most of the trip we took the middle spot in the convoy, Shelley, Dusty and Forest in front of us, Coral, Stella and Cliff / Red behind us. In many places radio communication was lost between the front and the back of the convoy, and we were relaying messages in either direction. For some of the trip we were even promoted to remote radio holders, given responsibility for communicating with the truck drivers on channel 40! 

For the most part, all radio communication has been reserved for important comms, but the odd silly thing has been transmitted. At one point when cows were wandering in front of the convoy Glasgow did ask “why did the cow cross the road?” There was literally radio silence, so he asked it again the next day when more cows crossed in front of us. Again, crickets! I am sure if everyone else had understood his accent there would have been an array of answers, but the correct one is “because it identifies as a chicken and wants in on the joke”.

Thursday 3rd October 2024

Day 6 (Day 4 of the road trip) – Moreton Telegraph Station to Dulhunty River on the Old Telegraph Track

Today is the day we start the Old Telegraph Track. I have no expectations other than those I have seen, or The Piper has shown me, on YouTube. I have some assumptions, like the track will have alternate routes and we’ll choose which way we prefer to go, and there will be loads of people, out there, and it will be fun. I guess we are about to find out! After the regular morning briefing at 07.00hrs we were off along a short section of the PDR (Peninsula Development Road) before we arrived at Bramwell Station for fuel and a picture or two. In the absence of a car sticker, we bought a couple of stubby holders, something that will be well used!

There were a couple of cars entering the Track as we were getting sorted. Fairly swiftly we were on the track, bumping our way to arrive at Palm Creek almost immediately. And it was here that I really had my “Oh No!” moment. Up to that point I had been driving this morning, but one look at the cliff that enters the creek and the mud that follows the creek bed to the exit, made me clench and panic. I very quickly looked at Crocodile Glasgow and said, “You can drive”. 

In what has become a repeated procedure, our Leaders inspected the crossing and gave us a thorough briefing of what they wanted us to do. During the inspection the cars that left before us did their best to completely ruin the exit (we missed their entry) and watching them exit only increased my anxiety. They roared and revved and flicked mud everywhere and generally made a big mess. 

Anyway, we needed to make the drop, traverse the mud and make the exit ourselves. To ensure that the trailer would make it through, another vehicle needed to go first, and Cliff volunteered. The driver is Mr Land Rover, an owner of one himself and experienced four-wheel driver! As expected, he executed the entry and conquered the mud without any difficulty, although he bogged in slightly but expertly recovered. With Cliff in place to recovery Shelley if needed, Cliff blatted through unaided. Then Dusty went next, also without incident, followed closely by Forest who also made it look easy! Go the girls, I am super impressed, but I’m still not going to risk it! 

The next step was for these four vehicles to exit the creek bed, via the same spot the earlier mob had a hard time. Unlike them, our crew just chucked the 4WDs in low range and walked out. Made it look easy! With the creek bed clear, the remaining three of us needed to keep the standard high! Coral was next and again entered and aced the creek bed. That left 2 and we were next. Both our hearts were racing. You have to understand that among all my expectations, a creek bed crossing like this just did not feature, especially within a couple of kms of the start. I have to say though, that we talked each other through getting started, and despite his racing heart Glasgow followed the instructions to the letter, and Flora took us down the entry and through the mud without batting an eyelid!

The final vehicle (Stella) made it into the creek bed safely and suddenly I found my big girl pants and decided to try driving us out. Like the others before me, I did it easily and got a huge adrenaline rush! I have to admit though, I was still wondering what we have gotten ourselves into, and if we can possibility get out of it in one piece! 

The rest of our morning was spent getting to Dulhunty River, both of us sharing the driving along wet and dry creek beds, rocky sections, and straddling the track in many places. With each passing kilometre our confidence grew, especially as the calm and direct instructions came from the 2-way radio. At one point I found myself on the verge of tears, thinking about the many times in a past life where I dutifully sat in the passenger seat, not capable enough (apparently) to drive any of the 4wds we owned. I wound up realising the power of a good man is in how he empowers his partner. Crocodile Glasgow not only empowers me, but he believes in what I can do, and supports me to have a red-hot crack! I think we are going to have a great few days ahead as we move along this Old Telegraph Track!

Eventually we arrived at Dulhunty River, our stopping point for the day, and enjoyed yet another great lunch, before spending the afternoon in the water, floating about on our inflatables and cooling down!

The river is beautiful, very similar to those in the Northern Territory, and a great place for us all to spread out and do our thing. Eventually we enjoyed a delicious dinner of spaghetti bolognaise before some more star gazing. Scorpio was sitting in a perfect position for everyone to see, and the odd unverified satellite was also spotted. 

As has become the way, our travelling companions went to bed early (well early for us) and we sat and chatted to Our Fearless Leader and The Larrikin. Tonight, the chatter turned to tomorrow’s itinerary and suddenly it was announced that we tackle Gunshot almost straight away. I thought I was going to give Gunshot a go, but I also didn’t think it would be so soon. Bugger, I was hoping for a good night’s sleep. Now I’ll probably lie awake thinking about this! 

Today’s side story – And what about our trusty steeds? It’s a good day to describe the steeds, given the sheer amount of work they have put in for us. The lead car, the one Our Fearless Leader and The Larrikin are driving, is Shelley. Shelley tows a trailer and between them they have our food, utensils and everything else we need. We also met Nugget at Fruit Bat Falls, a 6×6 that even carries fuel for everyone else!

There is also Dusty and Forest with the sisters, Stella and Cliff with the English people, Coral with the couple from southern Queensland, and our beast, Flora.

They are all ex-army long wheelbase Land Rovers, still painted in camouflage, complete with authenticity plates. 

As well as being our mode of transport, they are also our homes, housing a great little fridge, a relatively comfortable mattress, our crockery and cutlery, and all the stuff we have brought with us. Flora is no less comfortable to sleep in than the campers we had in NZ or NSW, and probably more comfortable than Bessy the Bus. We are doing the daily shuffle of everything onto the bed in the morning, and then onto the two front seats and into the footwells in the afternoon. We’ve got a few things stored in the boxes under the false floor, like our snacks and wet gear. There are two storage areas built into the body, one with our shoes and one with our recycling. 

Other storage areas hold a complete set of recovery gear in each vehicle, and they all have built in winches, powered by the vehicles’ engines and gears. Our Flora is also the wood carrier, with a rooftop basket that gets filled at some point each day from an appropriate, non-National Park roadside site. It makes us easy to pick out from all the other vehicles in the many photos and videos that have been taken. Finally, to support the getting of wood and the rescuing of vehicles, we are all carrying a shovel, axe, pick and mattock, fixed to the bonnet, along with 25 litres of diesel and 25 litres of water in carriers at the back. We look the goods, that’s for sure!

But what about the ride and performance? As the proud owner of a sporty little red Peugeot 207 convertible (albeit a 2010 model), I can assure you Flora has almost no creature comforts at all! Unlike the Peugeot, I don’t depress the clutch, I almost stand on it! The power steering and air conditioning seem to be broken, and the dust suppression system needs to be looked at too! We got lucky with some canvas seat covers over the vinyl seats, but that might just be to cover the springs that are popping through the seats! Despite these shortcomings we absolutely love Flora because she has been incredibly rugged and taken us places, we would never have otherwise seen, without missing a beat. Along with the expert guidance, we have trusted Flora’s capabilities, and she has exceeded our expectations time and again. Unlike me, she took Gunshot in her stride, along with all the other obstacles that The Old Tele Track, Frenchman’s Track and The Bloomfield Track threw at her. It is very clear why the Australian army chose these vehicles. We ❤ Flora and would take her home if we could. Together we have come a long way since the Kmart car park on day zero.

Friday 4th October 2024

Day 7 (Day 5 of the road trip) Dulhunty to Elliot Falls via Gunshot 

Despite my worry, I slept quite well thanks to the white noise of the river outside our door. Another early start at 07.00 meant there wasn’t much time to stress about anything but getting ready to drive out. Morning briefing done, our first crossing was over the beautiful river we were playing in yesterday, which Crocodile Glasgow did with ease! Not too long afterwards we passed through the nearby campsite at Bertie Creek where Glasgow again crossed over, first hugging the bank to the right before expertly following the instructions and delivering us back on the track.

With a couple early of wins under our collective belts, we arrived at Gunshot, and I think I nearly had a heart attack! I’ve seen it on the videos, but it’s nothing like the real thing. There are multiple entries, none of which look any easier than another. Our Fearless Leader selected our point of entry, and I selected to watch a couple before making my final decision.

There were a few people at the bottom, waiting to see the spectacle and it didn’t take long for one to unfold before their eyes and mine, in the form of Shelley and the trailer lowered into the drop through a winch and pulley system from two of the vehicles at the top. Things seemed to go relatively smoothly although they were hung up for a while as the lowering process was worked out! The process is needed so that the trailer doesn’t just fold over the top and tip them both upside down! Watching it from the bottom, it was easy to see how that could happen. 

With them safely at the bottom, Dusty executed a perfect manoeuvre, before I was in the hot seat and ready to die! Now you all need to remember that I’ve cycled down the World’s Most Dangerous Road, pillioned around Vietnam on a motorbike, swung out over the city of Amsterdam and a stupidly done a few other hairy things, but nothing comes close to this! Absolutely nothing. With The Larrikin’s sage words of advice ringing in my ears (he does have a serious side), I looked at Glasgow, took the suggested deep breath and we went over the edge. Somehow, although I thought I stuffed up the accelerator at the bottom (which it seems I didn’t), we not only survived it, but we executed it perfectly. What a team. I couldn’t have done it without Glasgow, the most supportive wing man a woman could have. It’s also fabulous to be expertly guided by our empowering and encouraging Fearless Leader and The Larrikin, whose advice I followed to the letter. Three men who are responsible for the little weep I had at the bottom of Gunshot. I still can’t believe I have done it. To quote Glasgow, “a life high!” With us down, there were still 4 vehicles to come along behind us and of the six guests’ vehicles, three were driven by women! Go us. 

The little group, or as Glasgow calls us, the psychological experiment, are actually all a very cohesive team, clapping and cheering as each couple achieve the obstacle, and supporting each other with other things related to each day. Like letting down tyres using the gauge. Our tyres all needed to come down a few more psi to 24 before the Cockatoo Creek Crossing. Glasgow took on this one, which is good because it’s exit involved deep sand and a sweeping bend. My little arms and weak muscles, combined with the lack of power steering and soft tyres mean I just can’t pull the steering wheel! With more expert guidance across the creek and then up the sandy hill he aced it, and we were able to watch the others come through. 

After a quick stop to feed some cute little turtles who motor up to the bank with their heads poking out of the water, we arrived at Sailor Creek. Fortunately, we didn’t have to use the rickety looking old bridge to cross over, but having decided we would take it in turns to tackle each crossing, I took this one and if you have a listen to the audio, you’ll hear me asking Glasgow for a hand to turn the car! 

For all our hard work we were deservedly rewarded with a beautiful swim at the stunning Fruit Bat Falls before another fresh lunch. Fruit Bat Falls are pristine and incredibly inviting, with all of us taking the plunge into the water. Unlike Dulhunty from last night where the water has a tannin stain, the water here is crystal clear. I am glad we get to come back here on the way south. I may even try and get behind the falls with the GoPro. 

Today our campsite is at the equally beautiful Elliott, Twin and Indian Falls. We didn’t swim here, due to a recent croc sighting, which may or may not have been a few kilometres away from the actual area, but apparently there were many swimming. Instead, we wandered around, then enjoyed some quiet time, before another delicious dinner of Chicken Rogan Josh. I hope that one makes the cookbook.

Unfortunately, one of the vehicles, Cliff being driven by one of the English couples, has done a clutch. Luckily Our Fearless Leader is a mechanic and seems to have been able to do some bush mechanics that will allow it to limp along tomorrow. Luckily the driver is a Land Rover owner and enthusiast who drove one around Africa for a year and has owned many and still owns one to this day. If anyone can get Cliff all the way to The Tip, he can. Fingers crossed.

Today’s side story – the morning briefing and radio check. The morning briefing is when our day officially starts. It has involved mustering of the group via various means and waiting until everyone is present, before the map is consulted. The previous day’s path and antics are recounted, before the current day’s plan is unveiled. Most briefings have been at the ungodly hour of 7am, although a couple have started at 8am. Our last briefing was scheduled for 8am but we are now so well-conditioned that we were all milling around, scratching our bums by 07.15! 

Once the briefing is over, we climb into our trusty steeds and the radio check takes places. It varies between everyone having their radios on and quickly responding, to repeated requests for a “radio check” with one or more vehicles. Most respond with something like “Copy that from Dusty, over” or “Forest here, over”, to our attempt to show that we don’t mind the 7am start by saying “Good morning No Limits from Flora, Janie and Jim, over”. It pays to at least try to be cheery!

Saturday 5th October 2024

Day 8 (Day 6 of the road trip) Elliot Falls to Jardine River via Nolan’s Brook

I really don’t like early mornings, but I can see why they get us on the road by 07.00. The days are jammed packed with action and today was no exception! Almost immediately we were at Sam Creek Crossing, where it all just went to shit! I drove across the creek with great directions from the Our Fearless Leader and we rounded the corner to find a car halfway up the wall, with another at the top, preparing to pull him out. Our turn next, and the decision was made to try the middle route, so Shelley was the first to go, getting strung up straight away. Fortunately, someone at the top agreed to drag her up, with the trailer, and then one by one we were winched up by each other, as other groups of travellers did the same across the walls either side of us. Frankly, I thought it looked chaotic and dangerous to have so much happening at once, with dogs and kids around too. But it all went smoothly enough. Glasgow took Flora into the entrance and then up the bank up while I filmed from the side lines, and now we have some knowledge about winching and another thing to add to the list of things we need to buy for Maz. 

By the time that adventure was over it was barely 08.30 and we trundled off to our next challenge, Mistake Creek, that I drove across without any (mistakes). Having said that, it was really hard to get into the right line to make the entry because of the soft sand and my weak arms. Unlike everyone else, I had to reverse up a bit and then Glasgow had to help me pull the steering wheel around. The drop into Mistake is ledge-like and poor Flora banged and crashed her way in, then I gave her a bit too much boot in 1st gear, but our Fearless Leader reminded me to back off and let Flora do her job! There are messages from past guests on the ceilings of the vehicles and it seems someone who drove Flora previously may have made a mistake! 

Our next challenge was Cannibal Creek and although I has a chance to watch some of the group get through the obstacle, I’m glad it wasn’t my turn to take on the obstacle, because of the tight turn and sandy exit. Weak arms! Glasgow managed it with ease and finesse, following perfectly Our Fearless Leaders instructions through the water and The Larrikins instructions through the sand. Cannibal was a pretty creek, with a lovely drop off to the side, with a built-in swing to sit on as the water gushed past. No time for a dip though, unless you’re smart enough to have your bathers on all day.

Onwards to the next challenge and it crossed my mind to forego my turn when I saw the pathetic excuse for a “bridge”. Apparently, it gets washed away each wet season and re-built for the next season. I’d love to see the engineers inspection report for this year’s construction! Having reached into my bag for those big girls pants again, and after putting my faith in Our Fearless Leader and my wing man, I gently glided Flora across the bridge over Cypress Creek, before Glasgow helped me wrench the steering wheel around the corner. According to the Larrikin he should just keep helping me when I need. I can’t do it without him anyway! Poor old Cliff was the last to cross and you can see the margin for error is low!

Two crossings to go today and with the efficiency we were achieving we should have been at the Jardine River in good time again. Of course, arriving in good time relies on an event-less afternoon, which is not how things went at Logan’s. Again, it is a pretty creek that has a number of different routes of attack, the first of which a few cars were using. It seemed an innocuous drop in with a 25m sandy creek bed drive, before a sharp turn out of the creek. The furthest away route has a 90° entry, and the one just before it, a very similar angle. Our chosen point of entry was the furthest one and before we could say Jack Flash, Shelley was in it but the trailer wasn’t, and poor old Shelley was hard up against the wall, minus a window, a mirror and with a few dents in the front quarter panel! The Larrikin had to exit Shelley via the window, while Our Fearless Leader started troubleshooting a recovery. From a spectator’s perspective there was lots to see, but we decided we would be most help if we stayed out of the way, so we sat up on the bonnet of Flora and let the experts take over. 

Our Fearless Leader recruited Ned with Forest, who somehow managed to reverse her down the adjacent entry, with speed and grace. Once at the bottom and facing Shelley, the recovery started and pretty quickly Shelley and half the bank were safely out of the hole. I thought that was enough excitement for the crowd for one day, and time for the rest of us to get through. But it was not to be. In front of our eyes, and despite directions and driving ability, somehow Dusty and the Elle’s ended up nose down in the hole, 3 wheels on the ground and the fourth in the air! Despite the drop and bang, the Elle’s were uninjured, but following her majestic recovery, poor old Dusty has also lost a window and a mirror. That’s 3 of the 7 Land Rovers in our crew carrying an injury.

Fortunately, there was change of plans and it was decided the rest of us would be led safely through the route that Forest had reversed down. The remaining drivers didn’t have to reverse, and we made it safely and quickly through the pretty creek so that others could have a go. Despite the drama, fortunately only a couple of egos ended up bruised, and all the vehicles were drivable. I think even the eggs survived, so they can be properly scrambled for breakfast. 

Our last crossing was Nolans, where all the vehicles donned a bra. I took this one, nervous about the depth of the water and the many many people watching, including the kid in the water halfway along the bank! It also didn’t help that Glasgow told me it’s called the Car Drowner! Despite its reputation, we all rolled through without incident, and finally we could have a cool swim and eventually some very late lunch (3.15pm). The brook is absolutely stunning, and we were able to very quickly cool down, rinse off some of the dust and applaud our ability to travel 40kms in eight hours!

After lunch we did a pile of rock crawling before we arrived back on the PDR and made our way to a very welcome hot shower at Jardine River. Somehow or another, Mr Land Rover managed to nurse poor old Cliff all the way through the crossings and rocks, the corrugations and ruts, and deliver him here for the night. Kudos. 

Today’s side story – the food and drinks. Tonight’s dinner was chicken cacciatore, and like every other meal, it was awesome. Somehow or another, in the back of Shelley and in the trailer, our Leaders have been able to transport and maintain the freshness of enough food for 14 people for 15 days for 3 meals per day, and morning tea. Breakfast has been a choice of cereal or toast, with a big fry up on one of our free days in Loyalty Beach. We have also been able to have proper coffee at breakfast time, an essential for us to get cracking each day. Until they ran out, the morning tea cuppa was complimented with homemade biscuits and fruit cake (secret recipe). Lunch has been wraps or sandwiches, with cold meat and salad, or leftovers from the evening before. It is possible I won’t eat a wrap for a while now, but there was absolutely nothing wrong with them, and their freshness and convenience was obviously the reason why they were always the lunch option. 

Dinners have been cooked over the open fire or a burner, mostly in a camp oven, and have been very good. The steaks have been the best we’ve eaten in a camping setting, and if we lived near the Cairns butcher, we would be eating them all the time! Some of our sites have included convenient, just-for-us cook houses / undercover areas, ideal for communal cooking, eating and talking shit.

There was not one meal we didn’t enjoy, and we greatly appreciated not having to either think about what to eat or how to store it. I have been extra grateful that I haven’t had to cook for 2 weeks, although had the chance arisen, I would have been happy to make the lemonade scones. Maybe next time …

As for drinks, fresh tap water is provided and we are all carrying 25 litres on each vehicle, which we go through in tea and coffee, as well as drinking. We brought some sparkling water with us, but we drained all of that very quickly. It’s as hot as Mal’s Hairy Biker Chicken up here, so we are consuming huge amounts of water, which we flavoured with staminade until it ran out too, and now with diet cordial. Despite all the water, I am suffering from crippling calf cramps during the night, so I have been downing hydralyte in water, as well as crampeze tablets. Complimenting the coffee for us at breaky, Glasgow has been barista’ing up some pod coffee for us later each day. Essential for my survival.

Of an evening, we have been enjoying alcohol, while respecting the restrictions that apply north from the Jardine Ferry. Alcohol is a scourge across all communities including the ones up here, but restricting sales and types of alcohol sold is having a positive effect. At the time of writing this, each car (not person) can carry 2 litres of wine and a carton of beer or premixed cans of spirits. Pure spirits are not permitted. A bit like the lunch time wrap, it will be a while before we can face another can of alcoholic ginger beer. The restriction didn’t worry us though and we were more than able to make our regulation supplies last. Apparently, people on other tours have been known to dig a hole and bury their supplies at Jardine and dig them up again on the way past. Clever but somewhat desperate.

Sunday 6th October 2024

Day 9 (Day 7 of the road trip) Jardine River to The Tip of Australia!

Today’s the day we make it to The Tip, the main attraction of this part of the world. Because of the availability of the ferry, we had an 08.00 start from the campsite and all the vehicles except for Flora boarded the ferry together. We waited for the next one and Queen Flora was floated across the river aboard her own boat in 90 seconds! The rest of the road trip this morning was over some of the roughest corrugations we’ve traversed yet, but before too long we were in Bamaga and then at the Loyalty Beach Camping area to unload the trailer. Despite being a beach, we are allocated at the back of the campsite, at the far end of the property. We have a big space though, with a covered area that we can share, running water and some shade. 

So here we are, almost at The Tip. Just enough time for some morning tea and a shop at the Croc Tent before we drove as far as we could. I was surprised that it wasn’t complete chaos in the carpark, and it’s just as well it wasn’t, because there isn’t much room. The walk in, over the hill is rocky but even Mrs Honda with her new knee made it across the distance, and with loads of excitement and anticipation we made it as a group of 14 people to The Tip of Australia! It is an amazing place, with beautiful coloured water.

There is of course the sign that declares you have arrived and surprisingly on this particular day, not too many people were there at the same time. In fact, a few minutes after we arrived, all the other groups left and we had The Tip to ourselves! Many photos later, it had finally sunk in that we are at THE TIP OF AUSTRALIA! Another SeventyB470b list item ticked off! The Tip of Australia has an Indigenous name, Pajinka or Panjinka. Now that I know this, and out of respect for the Traditional Owners, I will refer to The Tip as Pajinka for the rest of this blog post.

After that fair walk, we needed more food (that bit is not true) so we headed down to Somerset and following our sandwiches and wraps, wandered along to view the graves of those who came before us. I imagine it would look lovely and inviting to folk who might like to settle there, but the extremes of weather and terrain probably changed that pretty quickly. For a bit of a difference and something we haven’t yet done on this trip, we took to the beaches, five of them, on the eastern side of the Cape. Once again, very pretty and inviting on a day like today, until a shark or crocodile surfaces in the water. For our daily dose of panic, I got a wee bit stuck in the sand. But Our Fearless Leader’s voice sprang into my head, and I stopped straight away, before Glasgow talked me calmly through reversing and proceeding without incident! No need for anyone to know that happened, although I pretty quickly got on the radio …

That’s enough excitement for one day.

Back to Loyalty via every supermarket on the peninsula, all of which were closed. Being Sunday, they probably closed early and with tomorrow being a Public Holiday (the second Kings Birthday in 3 weekends for us – thanks very much) it is unlikely they will be open tomorrow. Not that we need anything, but I think the trailer needs a replenish. Finally, we could get a lovely hot shower and somewhat cleaner than we were, before heading up to the tavern for a fish and chip dinner, a few drinks and the NRL grand final. Well done Panthers! 

Today’s side story – An update on the psychological experiment. Last Sunday when we met up, most of us didn’t know each other and it was apparent from our behaviours in the little gathering space at No Limits HQ, that most of us were tentative but excited. I say most of us, because there were clearly those with experience or bravado, that were raring to get going! Obviously, we are all here for the same, collective reason, to drive someone else’s 4wd to Pajinka, with support and guidance from respected leaders and each other. That makes us a group!

Halfway through the trip and the experiment is playing out as you would expect it to, when 14 people are thrust together for 15 days. Within our group there are some subgroups that existed before we all met up last Sunday. They are tending to park up together, sit together and play together, although they extend invitations to others.

Our meals are taken together, around one big table, which was initially draped in cloth. The formality of the cloth took just a couple of days to be discarded. The post-dinner clean-up is the time when the group dynamics take a slight turn. There are those among us who want everything done and dusted so they can get on with the evening. At home, this is us. Then there are those who want to have a sit, digest and chat, before tackling the chores. On holiday, this is us. While it doesn’t create any animosity, it means the same folk grab the dishcloth and tea towel most of the time, while others would if there wasn’t such a rush.

When it comes to the driving and tackling the obstacles, the group cohesion becomes apparent. Everyone piles out of the vehicles and assesses the situation, compliantly taking direction from our leaders. As each vehicle attempts and achieves the obstacle there are words of support, encouragement and praise, especially for those suffering from nerves (like me).

Spoiler alert – On our last obstacle of the trip, the trust within the group was so high that Elle 2 and Dee 1 volunteered to act as Sirens, sat upon rocks in the river to lure the drivers and vehicles towards them to avoid certain calamity. They really must have developed a lot of faith and trust in the other members of our group! 

My final observation about the group so far is that some of the niceties between strangers are slipping away. While I haven’t overheard anyone fart yet, there have been group-wide announcements about bodily functions, and I’ve seen more skin than I would at Cottesloe on a summers day, but it is simply a reflection of increasing comfort among us. There’s still a week to go. 🎵 Nads out Thursday 🎵 could turn into a free for all yet! In summary, so far the whole is greater than the sum of its part, and no one has been fed to the crocodiles …

Monday 7th October 2024

Day 10 (Day 8 of the road trip) – A rest day

Today is the first of our two rest days. Thankfully we knew it was a public holiday, so we had a plan, but I don’t think anyone else did, so most didn’t have activities planned. Mr Big Hustler and Mrs Honda left early for a trip by boat to Thursday Island, and The Elles and travelling companions went to Punsand Bay for a swim, and we chose to sit on the beach while we tried to get some of the red dust out of our clothes in the washing machine. It actually did a better job than I thought it would, but that might be because we only wore everything for a day. I think some of the clothes on this trip belonging to our travel mates may never be clean again. It was lovely to sit on the beach under the awning catching up on this writing, naming video files and relaxing. 

There was a moment of excitement, when one of the wild brumbies decided to raid a campsite. Another camper came down to move it on but in the process slipped and landed on his backside. The horse turned and pranced a little in reverse, before kicking towards the poor man on the ground right as he was able to launch and land a kick of his own! The excitement intensified when the ATV came out of nowhere and chased the brumbie into the surrounding bush. Campsite saved, which apparently hasn’t always been the case! Eventually we headed back for lunch and a bit more socialising before we headed out to Punsand Bay.

Glasgow’s birthday was back in August, and I gave him a Lego helicopter and a trip for both of us on a one-hour joy flight over the Cape. That’s what we did this afternoon, and it was next level amazing! We took off in a 4-seater, doorless machine that effortlessly lifted us into a clear blue sky and over Pajinka.

From the sky it looks like it does on the map! We couldn’t see anyone standing there to wave to, despite the pilot spinning us around a couple of times. The beaches and ocean looking back to Punsand were stunning in the golden hour light, before we turned to the ocean and the pilot asked us to point out Wednesday Island. No one told me there would be a test on the trip briefing! 

Out above the open ocean we enjoyed the fresh air and amazing blue water, before we circled around Wednesday Island, over Hammond Island, past the edge of Horn and Thursday Islands, and over a wreck, to Prince of Wales Island. The pilot chatted away to us, pointing out the fish traps, the World War II battlements, and the working lighthouse. With our permission he took us on a wild ride along a beautiful river, where we saw crocodiles out both sides of the chopper! At one point we swooped and looped back on ourselves, feeling like the musterers we see on TV. 

Eventually the river ran out, and we buzzed the chopper pilot’s boss’s house, before we descended over a pretty beach covered in turtle tracks leading to mounds where they have laid their eggs. Then, out over the ocean we were spotting swimming turtles left, right, and centre! Although we were out there for an hour, time literally flew by and we ended the trip with a great view of Possession Island, the place where in 1770, Lieutenant James Cook landed and ‘hoisted English colours’, taking possession of the east coast of Australia in the name of King George III of England (Hema Maps, 2008, p.90). Cheeky bugger! 

Our flight didn’t end until 5.50pm, then we hightailed it back to Loyalty for a delicious steak dinner, with a cous cous and a Greek salad. What a fabulous day and we have the half-day JetSki tour to look forward to tomorrow. 

Today’s side story – corrugations and dust. These two, corrugations and dust, go together. Not like wine and cheese though. More like famine and pestilence. Apparently, there were more than 9 million corrugations between Moreton and Pajinka. I don’t know who counted them, but I reckon they missed a few! Initially they weren’t too bad, but there are sections of the Bamaga Road, the Telegraph Road and the Peninsula Development Road that are shocking, as bad as any we’ve experienced in Western Australia. Surprisingly, while they rattle everything around, they haven’t really rattled anything loose (that we know of). In my old camper they popped the little tacks that held the trim onto my kitchen benches. The secret to travelling along them seems to be reduced tyre pressures (in this case 30 psi, as opposed to 50 psi that were in the tyres when we left Cairns), high ratio 4wd and speed. Enough speed to ride over them, but not so much that you aren’t in control of the vehicle. That sweet spot is around the 80kms/hr mark. 

As for the dust, I am well and truly over that. It’s bad enough that it is everywhere we stay, it’s in my bed, and everything I own is coated in it. But when it comes to driving in a convoy, there is no escaping it. The first day we had windows open and no cover on our gear. We only went a short distance, but it was enough to set the scene for a film of dust on everything. Since then, we close the windows and just leave the front vents open. Anything in the glove compartment area is well coated when we arrive at our destination. Our clothes and faces are also covered. It sticks to the lines in my elbow fold. I can wipe my face clean, then wipe more dust of it! I think I am leaking dust. 

Tuesday 8th October 2024

Day 11 (Day 9 of the road trip) – another rest day

So, I should be describing an incredible half drive trip on a jet ski to Pajinka and back. I should have been telling you about fish burgers at Punsand Bay. I should have been linking to GoPro videos of the blue water and red coastline. However, despite no fault on our part, the Jetski’s didn’t go ahead. We turned up as requested, when requested, and where requested, but no one else did. We tried calling and messaging and emailing but all to no avail. There was to be no JetSkiing today! We were very disappointed to say the least, but as Mrs C says, what’s for you will not go past you, so maybe the holiday gods were looking down on us for some reason.

Instead, we took the opportunity to head out on a jaunt to find the airplane wrecks. The DC3 is easy to find, so we drove straight past it and out to the airport, then headed bush and managed to find the Beaufort, lying in a wreck where it landed during WWII. Goodness knows what happened. Maybe they misjudged the airport runway. That seems most likely, given there are 3 in the vicinity. It would be odd for all 3 to come to harm in the same spot. We sort of tried to find the 3rd one but didn’t want to venture too deep into the bush, so we spun around as the track narrowed and headed back to look at the DC3. The plaque says the crew and passengers of this one died here. Actually, I assume the crew and passengers of all of the downed planes died in the crashes. 

Back in Bamaga we met up with the others and had some “lunch”, did some shopping and then headed around to the public swimming pool that was supposed to open from 2-5pm. Like the Jetskis, through no fault of ours, the pool didn’t open, despite confirmation yesterday that it would! Fortunately, the Punsand Bay resort is open to the public and has a pool, so 8 of us headed there (in three 2-seater vehicles), arriving as the other 4 were finishing up their day there. Given we were going past the Croc Tent, we also popped in there and grabbed a few more Tip souvenirs. You really can’t have too many, can you? 

The only eventful thing that happened to us today was that we ran out of diesel on the drive back to Loyalty Beach. Fortunately, Mr Big Hustler and Mr Land Rover were with us, so the diesel was reprimed and we were back on the road in no time, and back for dinner of roast lamb and all the great baked veggies. It doesn’t get much better than that! 

Today’s side story – Termite mounds and green ant nests. As is the way in northern Australia, there are heaps and heaps of termite mounds up here on Cape York. They vary in colour which I have noticed is a reflection of the colour of the land. When we are in sandy areas, the mounds are white or grey, when we are in red dirt country the mounds are red. The Larrikin pointed out that the mounds are constructed with an orientation that maximises the sun light they receive. They are tall and skinny on the east-west axis. Very clever little termites! Some of the larger mounds have been graffitied or dressed in clothes, but not nearly as many as we saw in the Northern Territory. 

The other thing we saw a lot of are ant nests in trees. From what I can see, the ants bind a few leaves together into a hollow home, and traipse backwards and forwards to it. At Loyalty they seemed to have built them around some fruit in the trees; I guess that’s to give them a food source. Again, very clever little ants. These nests were everywhere, as were discarded or ruined nests. I wouldn’t want one to fall on Flora overnight. It could be an itchy experience! 

Wednesday 9th October 2024

Day 12 (day 10 of the road trip) – Loyalty Beach to Captain Billy Landing 

I must admit I feel a bit sad leaving the north of the peninsula. It’s a bit of a figurative turning point too, indicating that we are sliding towards the end of this HUGE adventure. I don’t know what I thought it would be like, but it is an interesting and different place. Of course, Pajinka is a real thrill, but there is more than just that. There is stunning water, fresh air, sunshine and warmth (maybe a little too much). There is an air of being relaxed and on “Cape time,” and the people we met were friendly. I suppose there has also been a slower pace than the few days beforehand, with time to process our achievements. We’ve also had time to learn more about each other and unpack the psychological experiment a bit more. But it’s time to go … After a bit of a shit sleep thanks to leg cramps (must drink more water today), we were up and packed and ready by 8am, but delayed by the checkout process. In Bamaga we all fuelled up, and refilled our empty jerry can, racking up a bill for over $1k worth of diesel, at $2.80 a litre! Glad I’m not paying that one!

Our first stop this morning was the plane wreck, before we hit the dusty and corrugated track that took us to the PDR. The pace was fast, with the convoy split across a wide distance. There was a rush, in as much as the plan was to meet up with the No Limits crew who are doing a voluntary Tele Track clean up, and swap Cliff out for a vehicle with a clutch at Fruit Bat Falls. But after rushing all the way, we arrived before the other vehicles and had time for lovely swim and a coffee. Once again, the Falls were divine and we were all very well refreshed and ready to continue our journey. Cliff was also swapped out for Red, so the journey should be much less stressful for Land Rover Man and the Radio Queen!

It seems the rush didn’t go away though once we changed vehicles, with Glasgow and I wondering who was late for their dentist appointment. We just drove to our limits and to the conditions, and arrived at Captain Billy Landing safely. It’s a lovely spot on the east coast with a prevailing south easterly that is fresh and will be a very welcome relief tonight after the last few hot and sticky sleeps. Apparently Capt’n Billy was a local Aboriginal person who was interested in trading some of his stuff for some of their stuff. When the colonisers didn’t want to trade, he attacked the camp, without really hurting anyone. There are the remnants of a ramp and jetty here, where cattle were loaded onto barges for transport to market up and around the peninsula. On the road here there is a still a grassy spot that was a paddock for holding them prior to transport (Hema Maps, 2008, p.80-81). 

After yet another lovely fresh lunch we, took some time to relax and watch the ocean, before a wander up the beach. A usual I was picking my way through the shells and settled on a few and a piece of glass in the shape of a dolphin. We stayed well back from the water’s edge, and I was also scanning the high tide mark and dunes. One of the WikiCamps reviews mentioned a resident crocodile, so I didn’t want to take any chances. After a while we turned back and watched some as yet identified, soaring and gliding sea birds, float on the currents. Fortunately, Jordy Boy looked over his shoulder and spotted a pair of large turtles going at it in the shallows! We could see flippers flapping and heads clashing for a few minutes before they headed out to sea. We are going to be turtles aunties and uncles! To close out the day we feasted on pita with souvlaki, and told tall stories for a while, before an early night blessed with the south easterly and the white noise of the ocean. 

Today’s side story – The Telegraph, the Track and the clean up. Obviously, we are done with the part of the adventure that traverses the Old Telegraph Track, and we all survived, learned lots and achieved even more. But why is the track here? If you look at a map, the Old Telegraph Track follows a dead straight line, providing access to what was the overland telegraph, that was completed in 1887 and connected Thursday Island to Laura, and hence the rest of the world. It was complimented by telegraph stations, like the one we stayed at, Moreton Telegraph Station. The telegraph and most of the poles and the insulators are gone now, taken by souvenir hunters who drive into the poles with their vehicles, so they can knock them over to reach the insulators. There are relics of the track and station gear at Moreton that are worth looking at. 

The line of the Overland Telegraph is now the Old Telegraph Track, that we have conquered. Of course we aren’t the only ones, with estimates that 100 cars are spread across the track at any one time during the dry season. The south section is 70kms (we took 2 days), while the north section is 32kms from the Bamaga Road to Nolan’s Brook (we took a day). They are joined in the middle by 9kms of The Bamaga Road. Unfortunately, many cars and things that they tow come to grief on the track, and even more unfortunately people leave the evidence of their grief on the track. We saw bull bars, side steps, car parts, awnings and other car rubbish along the track. We also saw way too many cans, bottles and other rubbish, as well as endless toilet paper. Some of the infrastructure is also deliberately littered with what people seem to think is decorative. In reality it all makes what should be a pristine place look like the dumping ground for indulgent people who don’t care about the environment. 

Which brings me to this side story. While we have been traversing the northern parts of The Cape, a crew from No Limits 4×4 have been on the track doing a clean-up. They completely cleaned the entire southern section of the Old Telegraph Track and north to Canal Creek, retrieving nine full trailer loads of car parts and camping gear, three full bulka bags of bottles and cans and one full bulka bag of general waste/rubbish. Well done to them! 

Thursday 10th October 2024

Day 13 (day 11 of the road trip) – Captain Billy Landing to Wenlock River on Frenchman’s Track

Another early start and despite low tide, no opportunity to see the bat cave. A bit of a shame, but we can add it to the “next time” list, along with 🎵 Janie’s Creek out of Old Mapoon 🎵. Today’s pace out of Captain Billy Landing to Bramwell Junction was much less hectic, and much more interesting. On the road out it was easy to recognise the paddock that was cleared and grassed to contain the stock before they were mustered down to the jetty and off to markets at Weipa and Bamaga. On the main drag, The Telegraph Road, collectively we saw wild dogs, a wild pig (missed it), a frilled necked lizard (I wish I saw that!) and cows. Glasgow drove that part of the day, and I took over from Bramwell. 

The turnoff to Frenchman’s Track is not well signposted, so if you are looking for it, I suggest you check the distance from Archer or Bramwell, and then look for the Batavia Aboriginal lands turn off.

After a fun 12kms of 4wding, including sand, rocks, ruts and straddling, we arrived at the Wenlock River. It is roasting hot today, so the flowing river and gentle breeze provided a very welcome reception! As is the way, we walked the descent to the river and then a few people cleared a few obstacles, before Shelley made the descent and river crossing. We were next in line because we’d jumped a few places getting firewood. I would be lying if I said I wasn’t nervous about driving the descent, but I can say I was much less nervous than I was at the beginning of last week. So, under expert instruction from my wing man and from Our Fearless Leader, that you can hear on the audio, I made the descent and found that I thoroughly enjoyed it! 

Now we are parked up by the river, we’ve had lunch and a few plunges in the water (here I go again) and we’re all doing our thing.

There are loads of birds here, including an egret that caught itself a fish that we saw go down its neck. It looked like it needed to cough it back up at one stage, but eventually the kink disappeared! I can hear the call of the “woo woo woo” bird. I hope I get its picture today. There are also loads of dancing butterflies, a pair of which just pirouetted past us. Eventually one settled on the sand, while the other fluttered around it, obviously keen for affection. There are also some pretty little clown-like fish in the water. It’s really pretty, serene and comfortable here. 

Friday 11th October 2024

Day 14 (day 12 of the road trip) – More of Frenchman’s to Cooks Hut, via Chilli Beach

It won’t surprise you to learn, and in fact I daresay you could have guessed, that the morning briefing was held at the lovely hour of 7am, so we could be the first to hit the track ahead, paving the way for all the other folk at the campsite. Our exit took us up a big sandy hill climb with a flat section halfway up, which Glasgow conquered without batting an eyelid. By 08.30 we had also completed 3 pleasant creek crossings and some “gnarly” 4wding, bringing us to our first real obstacle of the day, a low ratio, 1st gear hill climb. While our nerves are still slightly on edge, we are at the stage of doing rock, paper, scissors to see who tackles the crossings and obstacles, not who doesn’t! Our last obstacle before a steady climb up to the top of the ridge was a deep in, deep out creek crossing, also in low ratio and 1st gear. 

At the top of the ridge, we all appropriately jumped out of the vehicles and headed down to assess the obstacles and crossing. Red expertly went across first and parked up on the bank. Shelley and the trailer then trundled down the step entry, before effortlessly cruising down the rest of the entry and across the river. I reneged on my turn, requesting instead that Glasgow take the reins. Following our mantra of “listen to and follow the instructions” he made the slow and steady, rocky and washed-out descent to the Pascoe River, and across it, without incident. We have come a long way in a week! Feeling a little like I was missing out, but having voluntarily relinquished my turn, I decided to take us back out of the riverbed, completing our very last obstacle for the trip. Apparently, my face was a picture of concentration!

Our Fearless Leader was absolutely right when he said that the last obstacle, crossing the deep but beautiful Pascoe River is the hardest, and to his credit and all of ours, all vehicles, drivers and Sirens made it out unscathed. We have all come a long way in a week! 

Our next stop was the village of Lockhart River for a few supplies, then a quick peak at Weymouth. It was here that “explorer Edmund Kennedy left nine of his party behind, hoping the starving men might recover their strength while he made a dash for the support vessel that was waiting at the Cape. Two were saved, including the expedition’s botanist, but the others perished” (Hema Maps, 2008, p. 68). Times were tough up here for the explorers.

Our lunch stop today was the pretty Chilli Beach, where there are coconuts and figs galore, as well as an inconspicuous sign stating that “a large crocodile has been sighted here recently”. This is the place where old Capt’n Bligh landed in his open boat after he was set adrift from the Bounty by the mutineers. It must have looked like paradise, at least at first. We didn’t stay here because a past trip was spoiled by stinky seaweed, but I think the ever-likely presence of a crocodile is enough reason to move to higher ground. By late afternoon we were safely set up in Cooks Hut campground, just down the road, choosing again to park in the middle rather than along the forest edge, to catch whatever breeze might arrive. There were a few shrieks and giggles from those with more private sites, who pressured up the rooftop water storage and took a “shower”. 

We decided to take a wander to see if we could find some palm cockatoos and the massive Bamaga Satinash mentioned in the book (Hema Maps, 2008, p.68). Unfortunately, we didn’t find the former, and apparently not many people have this year, and the latter is now fallen but nonetheless very impressive. Of all the places we’ve been this trip, this area, the Iron Range National Park, is one we will definite come back to. After dinner of beef stroganoff and rice, The Larrikin, Glasgow, Jordy Boy, Dee 2 and I went for a nighttime walk through the forest and along the road, hoping to see a cus cus and a green tree snake. My hopes were high as The Larrikin has seen the snake here before, but it was not our lucky night. There was a very green frog in the loo again (apparently) and we did see one small brown tree snake right at our feet, right at the end of our walk, right at the place where we started, both of which attest to what must be living safely in the depths of this beautiful place. 

Today’s side story – The flora (not Flora). Actually, this is a pictorial story. Enjoy!

Yet another 07.00 start, which may even be becoming easier, or maybe it was just that I finally slept through the night. It was hellishly hot when we went to bed, but we had strategically parked out in the open, so we caught what breeze there was. After the daily briefing we were on the road and bound for a good couple of hundred kms. Unfortunately, we were barely going before Jordy Boy and Dee 2 were up the bank! As appears to be the case on this trip, shit happens, but thanks to the expertise of our Fearless Leader and The Larrikin we were all safe and sound, and back on the road by 07.55! 

Most of the road to the PDR was bitumen with gravelly creek crossings. We crossed the Pascoe (the one we crossed the hard way yesterday) and the Wenlock (the one we stayed on 2 nights ago), and passed the road in to the Batavia Goldfield. Next time we are in the area, we’ll spend more time exploring places like this. Our morning tea stop was the familiar Archer River roadhouse, and our lunch stop was the also-familiar Coen River, where we took the opportunity for a dip in the river. In town we refuelled the diesel tanks and refilled the fridge with some beverages for this evening.

Lucky, we did get those bevvies because we sure needed them after the corrugations from hell to Musgrave Telegraph Station. We stopped here to put our teeth back in, giggle at the sign about dog shit that is in front of a million cow paddies, have a look at the freshwater crocodiles and grab yet another sticker. What we didn’t do is have a good look at the homestead, which my book says was constructed to defend the colonisers from the local Aboriginal people! The gun turrets are gone (thankfully) but it is otherwise intact (Hema Maps, 2008, p.62). Next time. Thankfully our final journey leg to Hahn River was less corrugated. Somehow though, at almost the same point on the road, in Bumf$&k Nowhere, our seven army Land Rovers managed to intersect with a motorcycle with the death wobbles, and a pedestrian, each going in different directions. What are the chances? 

Although it was a slog today, with loads of driving in tough conditions, and with the bingle this morning, I am glad we came to the little oasis that is Hahn River roadhouse. It has a bar, cooks a nice feed (apparently), has a great container pool with chlorinated river water (that we only found out about after the Jordy went to the bar) and a fabulous camp kitchen. It also has a heap of different resident and visiting animals, including geese, peacocks, a pony, a pig, kangaroos and wallabies, and a very, very naughty magpie. It was awesome to rinse off dust in a hot shower, eat delicious fettuccine bolognaise, feast on Mrs Honda’s golden syrup dumplings (Ah-Maze-Zing) and digest it all and the days capers under the starry sky. Hopefully my patient’s sore leg will be better, or at least no worse tomorrow; there’s barely a trip we go on where my skills don’t come in handy. At least I’m not resuscitating a swimmer after a near-drowning or supporting a thrown jockey at a horse race meet.

Today’s side story – evening chats. Almost every evening of the trip, not long after dinner and the washing up are done, the rest of the people in the psychological experiment head off to bed. It’s no surprise really, given our early starts, but as folks who rarely go to bed before midnight when we aren’t working, we just haven’t been able to go to bed when everyone else does. Their early retirement also happens to be the time that Our Fearless Leader and The Aussie Larrikin finally finish their many jobs. So, the four of us have enjoyed some great evening chats. We’ve talked about the day we’ve just had, any events or incidents, where we are going, 4wds and 4wd’ing, and other stuff. This time we’ve had on many of the evenings has been funny, informative and a bonus to our trip. Glasgow and I have also sat out in the dark on our own after even Our Fearless Leader and The Aussie Larrikin have gone to bed. The Far North Queensland skies are lovely and it’s nice to be warm well into the night. 

Sunday 13th October 2024

Day 16 (day 14 of the road trip) – Hann River to the Lion’s Den via Split Rock

Yet another early wake up for a 07.00 briefing and drive out. My patient was no worse this morning, but despite that we hatched a plan to ensure that he gets some medical attention today. With our tyres back up at 50psi, I was grateful for the signal that sent, that we can expect that the dust and corrugations are almost behind us, something I don’t think I’ll miss. Just south of Laura, we turned in to Split Rock, while the patient headed on to Cooktown.

We were lucky enough to be able to walk up to view an outstanding and amazing gallery of rock painted and carved artworks. To me it looks like the photo wall in my house. I can imagine people staying here, on their way north or south, or east or west, making a fire to cook turtle or inland swordfish, sharing stories of past generations, and documenting it all on the wall. Like people from other Australian Indigenous language groups, they had stories about creatures that take children away. I have heard that these stories were told to stop the children from wandering too far. Perhaps it’s the same here. As well as paintings there are also carvings, both of which I suspect have been carefully maintained across many generations, to continue to tell the stories of the past. A privilege to see. I am glad we had the opportunity, and glad that the whereabouts of the many other sites in the area are not publicly shared. 

After morning tea, we were back in the vehicles and off the Cooktown. Not long after arriving we rendezvoused with my patient who has been told he is on the mend, and we all got to wander the museum that is housed in the restored orphanage that was run by Catholic nuns. It has a focus on old Capt’n Cook, the bloke this place is named after, as well as other bits and bobs often found in these amazing regional museums. The building itself is simply stunning, but as we drove further into town later on, it was clear there are some wonderful pieces of architecture in this lovely little place. I would like to come back here and hang out for a while. It was certainly a lovely place to have lunch and meet the locals. 

Our last stop in Cooktown was the impressive lookout with 360° views. Naturally, there is a lighthouse there, which given it is atop a cape, isn’t a big one. Having said that, the walk up the hill would have still been a killer for the poor old lighthouse keeper. There was also a radar station up here in the early 20th century, that was apparently imported during World War II. There’s no sign of it now. I am intrigued by the town-wide commitment to continue to make reference to Cap’t Cook. Elsewhere in the country his statue and other objects that pay homage to him have been given the heave-ho. Not here though …

Back on the road we stopped at the bizarre and intriguing Black Mountain. Here’s how my book describes it … “the rocks are grey, the black is algal growth. There’s a sense of foreboding about the mountain, partly because of its rather eerie atmosphere and partly because of the legends that tell of people who’ve set out to explore it and never returned” (Hema Maps, 2008, p48). What I don’t get is why this mountain and none of the others around it, turned into a pile of grey rocks. It’s not just rocks over the surface, it’s “a mountainous pile of … boulders; many the size of small houses” (p.48). I know how, water. I just want to know why. And I think I know why people never returned. Apparently, there is a Black Mountain lion. We didn’t see it, but maybe it’s at the Lion’s Den …

It’s our last night and that’s exactly where we are staying, The Lion’s Den, across the road from “Jims Mental Asylum”.

We are not swimming tonight because the lion shares his den with crocodiles, but the showers were wonderful and refreshing. After downing our last beer from our fabulous wee fridge, we headed over to the Den, where a plan and an ode were being hatched. The atmosphere was lively, with us and a tour full of dirt bike riders occupying a couple of tables. The pub has that typical outback feel, with writing on the walls, memorabilia all over the place and a pub grub menu.

For a donation to a local child fighting some nasty disease, we used the pen and added our names to the wall. When we are back this way it will be fun to find them again and add another date. 

Not long after dinner the hatched plan was deployed along with a tremendous ode written spontaneously and brilliantly by Jordy Boy, accompanied by a small token of our collective appreciation for all that Our Fearless Leader and The Aussie Larrikin have done for us to make this trip phenomenal.

Our last night kicked on with much laughter, song and dance, until most of us toddled off to bed when last drinks were called. I heard a rumour that a couple of our team had difficulty finding their way back, and may have stumbled upon a soirée at another camp site and joined in. But I couldn’t confirm or deny this account, and I’m not one to spread rumours.

Today’s side story – Who else is up here? Although it is the shoulder season for travel to Pajinka, heading towards the wet season, there are a lot of people visiting here and of course there are folk living and working on the peninsula. We have stayed at places where dirt bike tour groups have also been staying. I suspect it would be an exciting and tricky trip to Pajinka on a dirt bike. We also crossed passed with a small group of people wearing Viking helmets, travelling on some postie-like bikes with ammunition boxes for saddle bags. I have no idea how they crossed even the shallowest of water crossing. Among the other folk were many with roof top tents, families with hybrid caravans like ours, and a single older man driving an all-wheel drive Subaru station wagon that seemed unlikely to make it out of Captain Billy Landing, let alone all the way to Pajinka. 

Everyone we encountered was friendly or helpful, or both, like Nick who dragged Shelley up at Sam’s crossing so we had a vehicle we could use to winch the rest. We met him again at Loyalty, where the poor guy was playing a waiting game for a replacement starter motor. He was very happy to take our fruit off our hands. For the second time in our travels, we met a helicopter pilot called Roger. “Roger that Roger”. Maybe helicopter pilots just say their name is Roger for the laugh! 

While these were all lovely encounters, perhaps the loveliest was with an Indigenous lady called Pamela we met in Cooktown. She wandered over to introduce herself to us, insisted on knowing who we all were then told us in no uncertain terms how welcome we all were in Cooktown. It was like a belated Welcome to Country for our trip, and something I personally feel privileged to have heard. 

Monday 14th October 2024

Day 17 (day 15 and the final day of the road trip) – back to Cairns via The Bloomfield Track

So close to the end and after a big night, we were gifted a 08.00hrs start which none of us used! It’s clear we have been conditioned and are now early risers. I can assure you, that won’t remain the case for us. On the road, we turned right out of The Lion’s Den and followed the Bloomfield Track through Wudjul Wudjul to Bloomfield Falls. Although it’s late in the wet season, there is still a lot of water cascading down, so I can’t imagine what it must be like her at the height of the rains! 

Glasgow and I both thought our instruction in how to 4wd was over, only to find that the Bloomfield Track has its own challenges. The road takes drivers like us over the Yorkey and Thornton Ranges into the Daintree Rainforest at Cape Tribulation. The ascents and descents are so steep that low ratio in 2wd drive and at times 4wd, is required. For the most part the road is gravel, but the steepest sections are paved with grooves for traction. On the ascents we used the low ratio to be able to climb at a speed that matched Shelley and the trailer. On the descents we used low ratio to reduce speed and reduce the use of the brakes. Flora ate the road both up and down, cruising at her usual low engine temp and with the throaty diesel sound that we have come to know and love. The views were amazing, and I enjoyed the low speed and the opportunity to watch the pretty and varied plants go by. 

At the bottom of the last climb, in sight of the ocean and in the cool of the rainforest, Coral decided she would collapse a front wheel bearing, giving us all the opportunity to have a cool drink in the nearby cafe, our last supper in the shade and then to pack our gear into our bags. Time well spent under the circumstances. It seems that it’s not over until it’s over! Once she was fixed, and in fact better than she was before, we all journeyed to Cairns for a final and fond farewell to Our Fearless Leader and The Aussie Larrikin. 

We can’t even begin to explain how fabulous this trip of a lifetime has been. On our travels we often go to the “most northern” or “most eastern” place. It’s usually geocaching that’s takes us there. But this trip to The Tip, Pajinka, has been like no other trip to a landmark. This one has been about the journey, the learnings, the achievements, the relationships and friendships, the 4wding and the challenges. It’s been personal for me. I thought I had nothing to prove, but maybe I did. I proved that I can do anything I want to do, but I won’t do things from the passenger seat. No Limits!

Side story – how the psychological experiment ended. It’s now quite a few days since the trip finished and we’ve all gone our separate ways. During the 15 days, bonds were formed through shared experiences like card games, driving achievements and caring for each other. For some it was a job that they did well, for others an adrenaline filled holiday. It’s likely that some will keep in touch, while others will walk away with their memories, never to be heard from again. So as a group, I think we were fairly “normal”. There were quiet ones and loud ones, ones that were always happy and others that were at times hard to please. Everyone was a follower and a leader, all skilled in different yet complementary ways. Despite the personalities and maybe because of the situations we faced, we stayed together, looked out for and smiled at each other, and no one was fed to the crocodiles. But that might just be because “they are a great Australian myth”. 

“Goodbye No Limits from Flora, Jim and Janie. Over and out!”

Postscript, Sunday October 20th, 2024

The party is well and trying to over, with Glasgow and I on our way home to Perth via Brisbane.

We have spent the last 5 days and 6 nights in Port Douglas, lazing by an adult only pool, drinking cocktails and eating too much food.

We caught up with some other people for a day out in Mossman Gorge and Daintree Village, and on another day, we indulged in a relaxing River Drift experience.

We definitely needed the week to get the dirt off, catch up on sleep and just relax. And because we can’t help ourselves, we’ve hatched a plan for our next great adventure!